When evaluating a Hermès Birkin or Kelly, the leather is only half the story. The true test of authenticity lies in the microscopic details of the hardware and the precise, often hidden, factory markings known as “blind stamps.”
Counterfeiters have access to high-quality leathers, but replicating the exact metallurgical weight, the crispness of a CNC-milled engraving, and the proprietary fonts of Hermès stamps is where even the best replicas often fail.
Here is the definitive guide to analyzing Hermès Gold Hardware (GHW) and decoding the brand’s historic blind stamps.
Part 1: Authenticating Hermès Gold Hardware (GHW)
Hermès hardware is not simply “gold-colored” metal. It is substantial, highly engineered, and traditionally plated in real gold.
1. The Plating and Weight
Authentic Hermès Gold Hardware is typically plated in 18-karat gold. If you are authenticating a vintage bag (pre-2000), the hardware was often plated in 24-karat gold, giving it a slightly richer, warmer, and more yellow hue.
The Weight Test: Authentic hardware is heavy. The turnlock (touret), the plaques (the metal plates on the straps), and the padlock should feel dense and substantial. Hollow or unnaturally lightweight hardware is an immediate red flag.
Tarnish and Wear: While 18k and 24k gold plating is highly durable, it can develop micro-scratches over time. However, it should never easily flake, peel, or reveal a cheap, dull grey metal underneath.
2. The Engraving and Hallmarks
The most critical authentication point on the hardware is the “HERMÈS-PARIS” engraving on the front plaque of the sangle (strap).
The Font and Spacing: The font must be perfectly spaced, crisp, and elegant. Replicas often make the font too thick, too deep, or space the letters unevenly. Pay special attention to the grave accent over the “E” in HERMÈS—it should be delicate and perfectly angled.
Laser vs. Hand Engraving: On modern bags, the engraving is laser-etched, resulting in incredibly precise, clean lines with a matte interior. On vintage bags, the engraving was deeper and slightly thicker.
The Hallmark (Poinçon): If the bag features gold hardware, there must be a tiny hallmark stamp located directly next to the “HERMÈS-PARIS” engraving. This hallmark signifies the gold plating. Palladium hardware (PHW) does not have this specific hallmark.
3. The Turnlock (Touret) and Pontet
The mechanical action of the hardware is a major tell.
The Turnlock: The touret should turn smoothly but with a distinct, engineered resistance. It should never feel loose, wobbly, or rattle when the bag moves.
The Pontet: The metal brackets that hold the straps in place (the pontets) should be perfectly smooth on the inside. Run your finger inside the pontet; authentic Hermès polishes the hidden underside just as meticulously as the outside. Fakes often leave the underside rough or unfinished.
Part 2: Decoding and Authenticating Blind Stamps
Hermès does not use serial numbers in the traditional sense. Instead, they use “blind stamps”—heat-stamped codes pressed into the leather that indicate the year the bag was manufactured and the specific artisan (or workshop) that crafted it.
1. Locating the Stamp
The location of the blind stamp has changed over the decades, making location an authentication factor in itself:
Pre-2015: The stamp is almost always found on the back of the left sangle (the leather strap that closes the bag).
2015 to Present: Hermès moved the stamp to the interior of the bag. On a Birkin, it is typically located on the left-hand side of the interior, near the back wall. On a Kelly, it is found inside on the right-hand side.
2. Decoding the Year
Hermès uses an alphabetical system to denote the year of manufacture, grouped into distinct eras surrounded by shapes.
Era 1 (1945 – 1970): A simple standalone letter (A to Z).
Era 2 (1971 – 1996): A letter enclosed in a circle.
Era 3 (1997 – 2014): A letter enclosed in a perfect square.
Modern Era (2015 – Present): To combat counterfeiters, Hermès removed the shapes entirely. The modern stamp is a complex alphanumeric code (e.g.,
L NN NNN AA). The first letter in the sequence typically represents the year.T = 2015
X = 2016
A = 2017
B = 2018 (and so on, skipping certain letters like S).
3. Analyzing the Impression
Knowing the code is easy; authenticating the physical stamp is the hard part.
The Depth: A genuine blind stamp is exactly that—blind. It is heat-stamped into the leather without foil. The impression should be clean and legible but never so deep that it cuts or burns the leather.
The Artisan ID: Next to the year stamp, there will be a series of numbers and letters. This identifies the craftsman. Counterfeiters often reuse the same generic stamps across thousands of bags, whereas an authentic bag has a highly specific code.
The Font Match: The font used for the blind stamp must align perfectly with the era. Counterfeiters frequently use fonts that are too large, too bold, or completely incorrect for the specific year they are trying to replicate.
The Verdict on Authentication
No single element proves a bag is authentic. A highly sophisticated replica might get the blind stamp perfectly right but fail on the interior polish of the pontet or the exact weight of the padlock. True authentication requires analyzing the hardware, the stamps, the stitching, and the leather as one cohesive, mathematically precise unit.